Understanding Sewing Pattern Markings: A Complete Guide
Open up a sewing pattern sheet and you're faced with an array of dashed lines, dots, arrows, and other symbols that might as well be ancient hieroglyphics if you're new to sewing. What do all these pattern markings mean? And more importantly, what should you actually do with them?
This guide breaks down common markings you'll find on a sewing pattern, explains what each one means, and shows you how to transfer any markings that should go on your fabric so your pieces come together as intended.
Why pattern markings matter
Pattern markings aren't just decoration – they're instructions built into the pattern itself. They tell you:
- How to position pattern pieces on your fabric
- Which lines to cut for your size
- Where to sew darts, tucks, pleats, and gathers
- How to match pieces together accurately
- Where buttonholes and other fastenings should go
Skip them or misinterpret them, and you could end up with mismatched seams, twisted fabric, or garments that don't fit properly. Learn to read sewing pattern markings correctly, and making your own clothes becomes so much easier.
Let's decode them one by one.
Cutting lines
What they look like: Multiple nested lines along the edge of your pattern piece, usually in different dot-and-dash styles.
What they mean: Multisized sewing patterns include several sizes nested within each other. Each line style corresponds to a different size – check the key on the pattern sheet to see which line to cut for your size.
What to do:
- Work out which size (or sizes) you're cutting – see our guide on
how to select your sewing pattern size if you're not sure
- Optional: Trace over your cutting lines in a coloured pen or highlighter so they stand out
- Cut along the lines for your size
Top tip: If your measurements span different sizes, you can grade between them by drawing a smooth line that transitions from one size to another. Learn how to combine pattern sizes.
Grainline arrow
What it looks like: A long, double-pointed arrow running down the length of your pattern piece
What it means: This shows you which direction to place the pattern piece on your fabric. The grainline arrow should sit exactly parallel to the selvedges (the finished edges of your fabric) – in other words, running lengthwise down the fabric.
Why does this matter? Fabric behaves differently depending on which direction you cut it. Follow the grainline and your garment will hang as intended. Ignore it and you could end up with twisted seams, weird draping, wonky hems, or even a garment that feels too tight.
What to do:
- Pin one end of the grainline arrow to your fabric
- Measure the distance from that end of the arrow to the selvedge
- Pivot the pattern piece until the other end of the arrow is the same distance from the selvedge
- Pin the other end in place
Now your pattern piece is positioned correctly and you can pin the rest of it down before cutting.
You don't mark the grainline on your fabric – it's just there to help you position the pattern piece correctly.
Place on fold arrow
What to do:
- Fold your fabric in half lengthways, bringing together the selvedges
- Place the pattern piece so the "place on fold" line sits exactly on the fold
- Pin in place before cutting out the fabric – when you unfold the fabric, you'll have a complete symmetrical piece
Notches
What they look like: Short lines at a right angle to the cutting line – or sometimes triangles
What they mean: Notches are matching points that help you line up pattern pieces accurately when pinning them together. They show you which edges go together and help you align things like sleeve caps into armholes.
Special note: Two notches together usually indicates the back of a pattern piece, such as on a sleeve. This stops you sewing sleeves in backwards (we've all done it!).
What to do:
Mark notches with a short snip within the seam allowance – about 5mm (¼in) deep so they won't show on the finished garment.
Why snip instead of cutting out triangles? It's faster, and your fabric is less likely to tear or distort.
If the notches are on a piece that will be interfaced, mark them on the interfacing using a chalk pencil or similar, and only snip once you’ve fused the interfacing to the fabric – otherwise they will close up in the meantime. Learn more about sewing with interfacing.
Dart markings
What they mean: Darts are wedges of fabric stitched and pressed to create shaping around your body's curves – like at the bust, waist, or shoulders. The lines are the dart “legs”, showing you where to stitch.
What to do:
- Using a removable marking tool, mark the dart legs (the outer lines of the triangle) on the wrong side of your fabric
- Optional: Mark the centre fold line too to help you fold the dart accurately
Need help with dart placement? Our Fitting Round-Up includes tutorials on adjusting dart position and depth for a better fit.
Gather point markings
What they look like: Small circles, dots or crosses along a seam line, sometimes accompanied by a curved or wiggly arrow.
What they mean: These show you where to start and stop sewing long gather stitches – like when creating puffed sleeves, gathered skirts, or ruched details. Sometimes notches are used as gather points instead.
What to do:
When cutting out your pieces, mark gather points by sticking a pin straight down through all layers of the pattern and fabric, then carefully lifting up the pattern and making a small dot where the pin comes out using chalk or a washable fabric pen on the wrong side of all layers of fabric. Don’t mark the arrows – just the circles, dots or crosses.
When you sew your gathering stitches, you'll start and stop at these points so the gathers sit in the right place.
Buttonhole markings
What they mean: These show you where buttonholes should be positioned on your garment.
What to do:
Use a removable fabric marker to mark buttonhole positions on the right side (outside) of your fabric. Stick a pin straight down through all layers of the pattern and fabric, then carefully lifting up the pattern and make a small dot where the pin is inserted through the fabric.
You only need to mark buttonholes on the side of the piece where the buttons will go (usually the right-hand side on womenswear, or the left-hand side on unisex or menswear clothing) – the buttons will go on the other side.
Button markings
What they mean: These show you where buttons should sit in relation to the buttonholes.
What to do:
It’s usually best not mark button positions from the pattern. Here's why: you need to mark them in relation to your finished buttonholes, not the pattern markings. Buttonholes can shift slightly when you sew them.
- Pinning the garment together as if it were buttoned up
- Pushing the tip of a removable marker through each buttonhole onto the layer underneath
Pleat lines
What they look like: Dashed or solid lines running down or across pattern pieces (not along edges), usually labelled as pleats or tucks
What they mean: These show you where to fold or stitch fabric to create pleats, tucks or similar folded details. Construction methods vary, so refer to the instructions for the pattern you’re using.
What to do:
Mark fold lines on the right side of your fabric so you can see them when folding. Do test your marker on a scrap of your fabric first to make sure it comes off.
For long, straight lines, you can mark the endpoints with chalk or small snips, then use a long ruler to draw a line between them directly on the fabric.
Dot, circle or cross markings (general matching points)
What they mean: These are often used to indicate matching points – similar to notches, but where pieces need to be aligned inside from the edge, for example, where to place patch pocket corners on a trouser leg.
What to do: Mark them with a pin pushed through the pattern and fabric, then make a small dot where the pin emerges using chalk or washable pen. They often need to be marked on the right side of the fabric, but do check the pattern instructions. When sewing, use the markings to align the relevant pieces.
How to transfer markings to your fabric
You've got several options for transferring pattern markings – pick the method that works best for each type of marking:
Iron-erasable pens – I love using Frixion pens for transferring sewing pattern markings. The fine tips make them accurate, and they are easily removed with the heat of the iron. However, this does mean you can only use them on a marking that will be used before the piece is pressed.
Chalk pencils or washable fabric markers – Perfect for dots, circles, gather points, and short marks. Quick and easy, but check it washes out on a fabric scrap first.
Dressmaker's carbon and a blunt tracing wheel – Great for darts, fold lines, and any straight or curved lines – but they can sometimes leave a permanent mark, so try to use on the wrong side (inside) of the fabric only. Place carbon paper between pattern and fabric (coloured side down), then roll the tracing wheel firmly along the lines.
Tailor's tacks – Traditional method where thread is loosely hand-sewn through fabric layers to mark points. Time-consuming, but useful for tricky or delicate fabric.
Snips – Best for notches. Fast and accurate.
Pins – Useful for temporarily marking points while you work, but can fall out.
Read our complete guide to marking and cutting fabric for more detailed techniques.
Want to master pattern reading from start to finish?
Understanding pattern markings is just one piece of the puzzle. If you're ready to go from confused beginner to confident sewist, our Learn to Sew an Easy Top workshop takes you through every step of making your first garment — from reading the pattern to transferring markings, cutting fabric, and sewing it all together.
You'll make the Samara top sewing pattern (included with the workshop) while learning foundational techniques you'll use in every sewing project.
Explore Learn to Sew an Easy Top workshop
Or if you're ready to tackle more advanced projects with confidence, browse our full range of online sewing workshops — we've got everything from classic shirts to bodice fitting.
Related guides
Now you understand what all those symbols mean, here's what to read next:
-
Demystifying Sewing Patterns – Understanding pattern envelopes, what's included, and how to read instructions
-
Before You Cut Your Fabric – Pre-cutting checklist to avoid costly mistakes
-
How to choose your sewing pattern size — Working out which size to cut
- Marking & Cutting Fabric – Detailed techniques for transferring markings and cutting accurately
Happy sewing!
