Fitting the Leah Sewing Pattern
So, you’ve got your hands on the Leah sewing pattern – exciting! With its semi-fitted bodice, slightly A-line silhouette and multiple design options, Leah is designed to feel comfortable, wearable and easy to style. And a few simple tweaks can help you create a fit that feels even more you.
Whether you’re sewing the shift top, tiered midi dress or one of the side tie versions, here are some fitting tips to help you get great results.
How is Leah designed to fit?
Leah has:
- A semi-fitted bodice and slightly A-line silhouette that skims the body without clinging
- Bust darts for shaping
- Round neckline with keyhole button and loop opening at the back
- Loose-fitting gathered skirt on the peplum top and tiered midi-dress versions
- Choice of four hemlines: shift top finishes at low waist, peplum top finishes at high hip, mini-length shift dress finishes above the knee, midi-length tiered dress finishes above the ankle
The shift top and dress versions are designed to have a cleaner, more structured shape, while the gathered peplum and tiered versions have more softness and movement.
What’s a toile and should I make one?
A toile (or muslin) is a practice version of your garment made in inexpensive fabric so you can test the fit before cutting into your final fabric.
We recommend making a toile using the front and back bodice pieces so you can check and tweak the fit around the bust, shoulders, and armholes. The peplum and skirt are more easy-fitting, so you can leave those off your toile.
Top tip: Instead of finishing the armholes and neckline on your toile, simply trim 6mm (1/4in) seam allowance from these seams to show where the finished edges will sit once the bias binding is applied.
→ When, Why + How to Make a Toile or Muslin
How to choose your Leah sewing pattern size
Using a flexible tape measure, measure your:
- High bust – around your upper chest, under your arms
- Full bust – around the fullest part of your bust
- Waist – where your body bends at the side
- Hips – around the fullest part
Compare your measurements to the body measurements chart included with the pattern.
If your measurements fall across different sizes – which is very common! – you can grade between sizes to create a more personalised fit.
→ How to Select Your Sewing Pattern Size
Grading between sizes
Leah is relatively straightforward to grade between sizes thanks to its clean silhouette.
If your bust, waist and hip measurements fall into different sizes, redraw the side seams using a smooth line to blend between sizes.
For example, you might blend from one size at the bust to another at the waist or hips.
If you plan to lengthen or shorten the pattern too, it’s best to make those adjustments before grading between sizes.
→ How to Combine Pattern Sizes
How to lengthen or shorten Leah
Our patterns are drafted for a height of 5ft 5in (165cm). If you’re particularly taller or shorter than this, you may want to alter Leah before cutting your fabric.
You can lengthen or shorten:
- The bodice, if the waistline sits too high or low
- The top versions, depending on where you’d like them to finish
- The dress versions, to customise the hem length
Use the lengthen/shorten lines included on the pattern pieces and remember to adjust any matching pieces by the same amount.
→ How to Lengthen or Shorten a Sewing Pattern
Bust adjustments
Because Leah includes bust darts, it’s relatively simple to adjust the fit through the bust if needed.
If you usually make a full bust adjustment (FBA) or small bust adjustment (SBA), we’d recommend doing this before sewing your final version.
Making a toile first can help you decide whether an adjustment is needed.
If you notice pulling across the bust, drag lines pointing towards the side seams, or the hem lifting at the front, you may benefit from adding extra room through the bust.
→ How to Do a Bust Adjustment on a Darted Bodice (FBA & SBA)
Checking the shoulder fit
If you notice excess fabric pooling near the shoulders or armholes, try pinning out a small wedge at the shoulder seam on your toile to see whether this improves the fit.
This can help if you have narrow or sloping shoulders.
If you’ve taken our bodice fitting workshop, you may recognise this adjustment already, and know how much impact it can have!
→ Bodice Fitting for Home Sewing online workshop
Balancing the hem
When trying on your toile, check that the hem hangs evenly all the way around.
If the front hem is lifting or dipping, this can sometimes indicate that a bust adjustment is needed.
Rounded back adjustment
If you often find fabric pooling at the back neckline, you may benefit from curving the centre back seam, or folding out small wedges at the back shoulders to created darts.
This simple tweak can help the neckline sit closer to the body.
Don’t overfit Leah
One final thing to remember: Leah is designed to skim the body rather than fit tightly.
Try not to get too caught up in chasing a perfectly body-hugging fit – sometimes “comfortable and wearable” is exactly the goal!
Once you’ve adjusted Leah to suit your shape, you’ll have a versatile pattern you can come back to again and again in different fabrics and styles.
Share your Leah makes!
We’d LOVE to see your versions. Share your handmade Leah on Instagram using #SewingLeah and tag @TillyButtons so we can admire your work!
