How to Move a Bust Dart on a Sewing Pattern
Noticed that the bust dart on your handmade top or dress is sitting too high, too low, too far in, or too far out? Don’t worry, this is a common fitting tweak. In this tutorial, I’ll show you how to move a bust dart on a sewing pattern so it points towards the fullest part of your bust and creates a smoother fit.
A bust dart is designed to shape flat fabric around the curve of your body. When it’s in the right place, it helps the bodice sit neatly over your bust. When it’s in the wrong place, the fullness can sit slightly off-centre, which may make the dart look a bit pointy or cause the bodice to pull in places.
The good news is that moving a bust dart is a simple pattern adjustment.
What is the bust apex?
Your bust apex is the fullest part of your bust, usually the nipple - but not always. The bust dart should point towards this area, but it shouldn’t finish right on top of it.
As a general guide, the dart point should sit around 2.5cm (1in) away from the bust apex. This helps the dart shape the fabric without creating a pointy finish.
Read more about how to sew a smooth dart.
How to check if your bust dart is in the right place
Before you move the dart, you’ll need to work out where your bust apex sits in relation to the pattern.
You can do this in one of two ways:
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Hold the front bodice pattern piece up to your body
Place the shoulder seamline so it sits 15mm (5/8in) over your actual shoulder line. Mark where the fullest part of your bust sits on the pattern.
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Make a quick toile
A toile is a test version of the garment, usually made in inexpensive fabric. Try it on, mark your bust apex directly on the fabric, then compare this mark to the dart position on the paper pattern.
Next, draw a line through the centre of the dart towards the bust. Your apex mark should sit roughly 2.5cm (1in) beyond the dart tip.
If your apex is noticeably higher, lower, further towards the side seam, or closer to the centre front, you may want to move the bust dart. Measure how much you want to move it by, and in which direction(s).
Tools you’ll need
- Your front bodice pattern piece
- A pencil
- Pattern paper or spare paper
- A ruler
- Paper scissors
- Glue stick or sticky tape
Keep your original pattern safe by tracing off the bodice piece before making any adjustments. Future you will thank you!
How to move a bust dart up or down
Use this method if the bust dart is pointing in the right horizontal direction, but sitting too high or too low for your bust.
Step 1: Draw and cut a rectangle around the dart
Draw a rectangle around the bust dart, making sure the vertical sides of the rectangle are parallel to the grainline.
Cut around the rectangle.
Step 2: Move the dart section
Keeping the vertical edges of the rectangle parallel with the original cut edges, slide the dart section up or down by the amount you want to move the dart. For example, if your dart needs to sit 1.5cm (5/8in) lower, move the rectangle down by 1.5cm (5/8in).
Stick the dart section in place with a glue stick or sticky tape.
Redraw the side seam so it joins smoothly above and below the dart.
And that’s it. You’ve moved the bust dart vertically!
How to move a bust dart horizontally and vertically
Sometimes your bust apex sits both higher or lower and further in or out than the original dart position. In this case, you can move the dart in two directions.
Use this method if you need to move the dart towards the side seam, towards the centre front, up or down.
Step 1: Draw and cut out a rectangle around the dart
Draw a rectangle around the whole bust dart, making sure the vertical sides are parallel to the grainline.
Cut out the rectangle.
Step 2: Split the rectangle in two
Draw a vertical line down the middle of the rectangle. Cut along this line so the rectangle is split into two pieces.
One piece will include the dart tip. This is the section you’ll use to position the dart in its new place.
Step 3: Move the dart point to the new position
Move the piece with the dart tip to its new position, keeping the edges of the rectangle parallel to the cut lines on the pattern. Stick it in place.
Step 4: Reposition the side seam section
Take the remaining piece of the rectangle and line it up with the side seam and other part of the rectangle as best you can.
If you’re moving the dart point towards the side seam, you may get a little overlap between the two pieces.
If you’re moving the dart point towards the centre front, you’ll probably create a gap. Stick some extra paper underneath the gap.
Step 5: Redraw the side seam and dart
Redraw the dart legs from the tip to the side seams. Redraw the side seams.
Before cutting your fabric, I’d recommend checking the adjusted bodice by making a quick toile, especially if you’ve moved the dart by more than a small amount.
Want more help with fitting?
Learn to diagnose and fix fit issues across the bust, waist, hips, armholes, necklines and back with guidance from a friendly expert in our online workshop Bodice Fitting for Home Sewing.
