Ten Tips for Sewing Gathers - With Video!
Gathering is one of those sewing techniques that looks so pretty on a finished garment, but can feel a little intimidating the first time you try it.
The good news? Once you know a few simple tricks, sewing gathers becomes much easier. Whether you're attaching a gathered skirt to a bodice, adding a flutter sleeve or creating a romantic ruffle, these tips will help you achieve soft, even gathers every time.
In this guide, we're sharing our favourite gathering tips, along with a step-by-step video tutorial to help you sew with confidence.
What is gathering in sewing?
Gathering is a technique used to reduce the width of one piece of fabric so it can be sewn neatly to another.
You'll often see gathers used on:
- Dresses (e.g. our sewing patterns Indigo, Nell + Lyra)
- Skirts (e.g. our sewing pattern Luella - shown above)
- Puff sleeves (e.g. our sewing pattern Nell + Indigo Add-on)
- Ruffles (e.g. our sewing pattern Marnie)
- Peplums (e.g. our sewing pattern Leah - shown above)
- Cuffs (e.g. our sewing pattern Billie + Pearl)
They're a lovely way to add fullness, movement and shape without making a garment feel bulky.
1. Use a contrast thread... or don't!
We usually recommend sewing your gathering stitches in a contrasting thread colour. Because the stitches are temporary, they're much easier to spot and remove afterwards.
That said, there's a little shortcut we love.
If you're planning to finish the seam allowances with an overlocker (serger), you can often leave the gathering stitches in place. In that case, choose a thread that's close to your fabric colour so it disappears into the seam.
2. Divide large sections into smaller ones
Gathering an entire skirt in one go can put a lot of strain on your threads.
Instead, divide the fabric into sections.
For example, mark the centre front and centre back of both the skirt and bodice. You can then gather each section separately, making it much easier to control the fullness and reducing the chance of snapped threads.
3. Increase your stitch length
Long stitches gather much more easily than short ones.
Set your sewing machine to its longest stitch length (usually 4–5mm) and reduce the thread tension slightly.
Your gathering threads will glide much more smoothly, making the whole process far less frustrating.
4. Sew three rows of gathering stitches
If there's one tip I'd recommend most, it's this one.
Rather than sewing two rows of gathering stitches, sew three.
The extra row helps keep the gathers beautifully even and gives you a backup if one thread happens to snap. It takes a minute longer but saves a lot of frustration later.
5. Tack first if you're unsure
Before sewing permanently, tack (baste) the pieces together using a long stitch.
This gives you a chance to check that the gathers are evenly distributed before committing to the final seam.
It's much easier to adjust gathers at this stage than afterwards.
6. Keep gathering stitches away from the seam line
Try not to sew your gathering stitches directly on the final stitching line.
Instead, sew three rows approximately:
- 5mm (1/4in)
- 12mm (1/2in)
- 19mm (3/4in)
from the raw edge.
This makes removing the temporary stitches much easier afterwards.
If you're sewing particularly delicate fabric that shows needle holes, position all three rows within the 15mm (5/8in) seam allowance so any marks stay hidden inside the finished seam.
7. Reduce the presser foot pressure
If your sewing machine allows it, lowering the presser foot pressure can make sewing over gathers much smoother.
It helps prevent the gathers being squashed flat as they pass under the foot.
8. Adjust the gathers as you sew
Even if you've pinned everything carefully, keep an eye on the gathers while stitching.
If one section starts bunching up, stop with the needle down, remove a few pins and gently redistribute the fullness before carrying on.
A few seconds spent adjusting now makes a huge difference to the finished result.
9. Reinforce heavier gathers
If you're attaching a gathered skirt made from a heavier fabric, consider reinforcing the seam.
Simply sew a second row of stitching just inside the seam allowance after joining the pieces.
This extra line of stitching helps support the weight of the fabric and makes the seam more durable.
10. Press gently
Pressing helps your garment look polished—but don't squash those beautiful gathers you've just created.
Use plenty of steam and a light touch rather than flattening the fullness with the iron.
Common gathering mistakes
If your gathers don't look quite right, don't panic. Here are some common problems and how to fix them:
My gathering threads keep snapping
Try gathering in smaller sections and lower your thread tension.
My gathers are uneven
Redistribute them before sewing permanently, or tack the seam first so you can adjust them easily.
My gathers look flat
Avoid pressing too heavily after sewing. A gentle press is all you need.
Sewing gathers is one of those techniques that becomes easier, and more satisfying, the more you practise. Once you've mastered it, you'll be ready to add beautiful fullness and movement to all sorts of handmade clothes, from swishy skirts and romantic dresses to statement sleeves and playful peplums!
Lots of our sewing patterns include gathering, making them the perfect opportunity to build your confidence while creating clothes you'll love to wear.
Browse our collection to find your next project →
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Video: Jenny Lingham-Doe
Photos: Jane Looker
