How to Make Your Own Bias Binding

Bias binding is a lovely way of adding a pretty detail to your handmade clothes, creating a polished finish on those seams that aren’t attached to anything else. 

You can buy ready-made bias binding, but it’s useful to know how to make it yourself so you can choose the exact colour, print, and width. It’s a great way to use up fabric scraps too – especially those precious leftovers you can’t quite bear to throw away. 

In this tutorial, I’ll show you how to make your own bias binding – both with and without a bias binding maker. 

What is bias binding? 

Bias binding is a strip of fabric cut on the bias grain – in other words, at a 45° angle to the selvedge – folded lengthways, and used to finish raw edges that aren’t attached to anything else, such as: 

• Necklines (where a facing would be too bulky) 
• Armholes on sleeveless garments 
• The loose edge of facings 
• Seams on unlined jackets 

It can either be wrapped around a raw edge or hidden on the inside of the garment.  

The reason it’s cut on the bias is to give the binding a little stretch, allowing it to mould smoothly around curved edges such as necklines, armholes and facings without puckering. 

You’ll spot it used on projects like: 

• The neckline and armholes of the sleeveless Leah top + dress sewing pattern and Skye sundress sewing pattern
• The neckline on the Marnie blouse sewing pattern 
• The back, underarms and straps on the Fifi camisole sewing pattern
• The facings on unlined versions of the Sonny jacket sewing pattern and Arielle skirt sewing pattern

Why make your own bias binding? 

Ready-made bias binding is handy, but homemade bias binding gives you more flexibility, allowing you to: 

• Match your garment fabric perfectly 
• Add contrast prints or colours 
• Choose your preferred width 
• Use up fabric scraps 
• Create a more high-end finish 

I particularly love using scraps of ditsy floral print Liberty cotton lawn for bias binding for a pop of luxury. 

Single fold vs double fold bias binding 

Single fold bias binding 

Single fold bias binding has both raw edges folded into the centre. It’s commonly used to finish raw edges such as necklines and armholes on sleeve less garments where you want the binding hidden on the inside. 

Double fold bias binding 

Double fold bias binding is simply single fold binding pressed in half again lengthwise, enclosing all raw edges. This type of binding is often used to enclose a raw edge on a garment, such as the edge of a facing or side seams on a jacket, making it visible from both sides.  

Double fold binding will end up being half the width of single fold binding, as it’s pressed in half. 

What you'll need to make bias binding 

• Light- to medium-weight woven fabric such as cotton lawn or poplin  
• Clear ruler or pattern master 
• Chalk pencil or removable pen 
• Rotary cutter and mat (optional but helpful) 
• Iron and ironing board 
• Optional: Bias binding maker 

For this tutorial, I’m using a Liberty Tana lawn cotton and a 12mm (1/2in) bias binding maker. A 12mm (1/2in) maker creates 12mm (1/2in) single fold bias binding, or 6mm (1/4in) double fold bias binding.

How to make bias binding 

Step 1: Fold the fabric on the bias 

Fold your fabric diagonally at a 45° angle to the selvedges, so the selvedges aligns with the crosswise grain.  

Using a clear ruler or pattern master, mark strips by drawing lines parallel to the folded edge. The strips should be the following width: 

• For single fold binding: Just under double the width you want the finished binding 
• For double fold binding: Just under four times the width you want the finished binding 

For example, to make 12mm (1/2in) single fold binding, or 6mm (1/4in) double fold binding, I’d mark strips approximately 23mm (just under 1in) wide. 

Step 2: Cut the strips 

Cut along the marked lines to create your bias strips. A rotary cutter makes this quicker and more accurate than scissors. 

Cut enough strips so the total length is slightly longer than you need for your project. As you folded the fabric, you’ll be cutting two strips at once. 

Step 3: Join the strips together 

Cut the ends of each strip so they form right angles. 

Place the ends of two strips right sides together to create a 90° angle. 

Imagine the area where the two strips overlaps as a square. Draw a diagonal line from one corner to the other to create a triangle shape at the outer edge (as shown). 

Stitch along this diagonal line, back tacking at each end. 

(Fabric getting sucked into your needle plate? Make sure you’re using a new, sharp needle, and pull the thread tails at the start of the project towards the back.) 

Step 4: Trim and press the seams 

Trim away the excess triangular corners, leaving a 10mm (3/8in) seam allowance. 

Press the seam allowances open. 

Repeat steps 3 and 4 until all your strips are joined into one long strip. You can now press them into binding with or without a bias binding tool as follows... 

How to use a bias binding maker 

Lay the strip wrong side up on your ironing board. 

With the bias binding maker flat or metal side down, and the fabric strip right (nice) side down if it has a print, feed one end of the strip through the wide end of the tool. You may need to poke the end through with a pin or small scissors. 

Pull the maker along the strip – the fabric edges will fold inward. Follow closely behind with your iron, pressing the folds in place as the binding emerges. 

Check occasionally that the raw edges are sitting evenly in the centre of the strip. 

That’s how to make DIY single fold bias binding. To create double fold bias binding, simply fold the single fold binding in half lengthways to enclose the raw edges, and press again. 

How to make bias binding without a maker 

Don’t worry if you don’t own a bias binding maker, or don’t have one of the correct width – you can absolutely make bias binding without one. It takes slightly longer, but works perfectly well: 

1. Fold the fabric strip in half lengthways, wrong sides together, and press to mark a crease line along the centre. Unfold. 
2. Fold one long edge in so it’s about 1mm (1/16in) away from the centre crease, and press along the length of the strip. 
3. Repeat on the opposite raw edge. 

This creates single fold binding. To make double fold bias binding, fold the strip in half lengthways to enclose the raw edges, and press again. 

Watch the video tutorial 

Prefer to follow along visually? Watch the step-by-step video tutorial below to see exactly how to make your own bias binding. 

Ready to try it? 

Now you know how to make bias binding yourself, you can: 

• Finish necklines and armholes with single fold bias binding 
• Finish the edge of a facing with double fold bias binding 

Happy sewing!