How to Sew a Slipstitch

Want to brush up on your hand-sewing skills? A slipstitch (or slip stitch) is a discreet hand sewing technique that it’s worth having up your sleeve.

It’s useful when you don’t want any visible topstitching on show. When sewn with matching thread, the stitches are almost invisible from the outside of your garment, giving your handmade clothes a neat, polished finish.

In this tutorial, we'll show you how to sew a slipstitch step by step, plus where you can use this useful technique in your sewing projects.

What is a slipstitch?

A slipstitch is a hand-sewing stitch used to attach a folded fabric edge to another piece of fabric without creating a visible line of stitching on the outside.

It's particularly useful when you want a clean finish without visible topstitching on show.
You might use a slipstitch to:

• Sew a folded hem or bias binding in place on a special outfit such as the Etta dress
• Seal a small opening in a bagged out lining, such as on the Manon jacket
• Finish other folded edges where you don't want visible machine stitching 

Watch the slipstitch video

Want to see exactly how the stitch is formed? Watch our video tutorial below.

In the video, we're demonstrating on the armhole binding of the Etta dress. We're using contrast thread so you can clearly see the stitches – when you're sewing your own garment, use a thread that matches your fabric so the finished stitches blend in.

How to sew a slipstitch

Here's how to do it.

1. Thread your needle

Thread a hand-sewing needle with a length of thread that matches your fabric. 

Don't use a piece that's too long, as it can become tangled while you're sewing. A manageable length will make the process much easier.

Tie a small knot at one end of the thread – it should be one strand thick, rather than doubled up.

2. Start inside the fold

Bring your needle up through the folded edge of the fabric you're attaching.

For example, if you're slipstitching the inside of bias binding, bring the needle up through the folded edge of the binding so the knot is hidden inside the fold. Or to seal the opening in a jacket lining, insert the needle through the fold of the facing seam allowance.

3. Take a tiny stitch

Move the needle across to the piece you’re joining it to, next to where the previous stitch came out, and take a tiny stitch, picking up just a thread or two of the fabric. You only want to catch a tiny amount of the fabric so the stitch isn't visible from the outside.

Pull the thread to bring the layers together.

4. Stitch back into the fold

Take another stitch through the fold of the first piece, making the stitch about 5mm (1/4in) long.

Then take another teeny tiny stitch next to where it emerges on the second piece. Pull the thread to bring the layers together.

Repeat until you have joined the entire seam or opening. Try to keep your stitches evenly spaced and avoid pulling the thread too tightly, as this can cause the fabric to pucker.

5. Secure your thread

When you've finished slipstitching, knot the thread a couple of times to secure it by inserting the needle through the last stitch and pulling tight.

Trim the thread and give the area a gentle press.

And that's it! From the outside, your stitches should be barely noticeable.

Keep practising your hand sewing

Slipstitch is a small technique, but it's surprisingly useful. Once you've got the hang of it, you'll find plenty of opportunities to use it – from finishing bindings and hems to closing lining openings.

And because it leaves such a discreet finish, it's a great technique to reach for when you want the inside of your handmade garment to look just as lovely as the outside.

If you're ready to put your new skill to work, try it on one of our lined jackets, coats or dresses, or explore our other tutorials for techniques you can use across your handmade wardrobe.

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Happy sewing!