How to Lengthen the Manon Jacket into a Coat
Interested in sewing the Manon jacket, but wish it were longer?
The original Manon pattern is designed to finish at the high hip, similar to the cropped trench trend that is all over the high street. But it’s absolutely do-able if you’d like to lengthen it – and pretty straightforward too!
For this version, I decided to lengthen the pattern to finish at the low hips to create a cosy pea coat for the winter.
You could even make it longer still, more like a knee-length trench coat. In that case, for ease of movement I would suggest either adding a centre back seam and back vent at the bottom, or a simpler approach would be to flare the side seams out to a wider hem so you can walk without restriction.
How to lengthen the Manon pattern
It’s best to lengthen the sewing pattern using the “lengthen or shorten here” lines marked on the pattern pieces, rather than simply sticking some extra length on at the bottom. This way, you’ll keep the shape of the pattern and the hemline intact, which will help when it comes to construction.
You can trace off (or reprint) a copy of the relevant pieces first if you like, or simply make the changes using pencil and a light glue stick so they aren’t permanent.
Step 1: Lengthen the pattern
Follow our full tutorial on how to lengthen or shorten a sewing pattern, adding the same amount of length to the following pattern pieces:
- front bodice
- back bodice
- front facing
- front bodice lining (if you’re adding the optional lining from the Manon add-on pattern)
- back bodice lining (if you’re adding the lining)
I lengthened my pieces by 17cm (7in). Bear in mind I am short though (5’1”), so you may want to add more to your pattern. To decide exactly how much to add, drop a tape measure down your back from the nape of your neck (the knobbly bit) and measure where you would like the adjusted hemline to finish on you. Compare this measurement to the nape-to-hem measurement listed in the sizing chart in the Manon instructions, and lengthen the pattern by the difference between the two measurements.
Step 2: Adjust the markings
On the front bodice pattern, lower buttonholes 3 and 4, along with the button markings adjacent to them.
Again, it’s up to you where exactly you’d like them to sit. I moved buttonhole 3 down by 7cm (2 3/4in), and then made the distance between 3 and 4 the same as between 2 and 3. (Bear in mind buttonhole 2 isn’t meant to sit vertically in line with buttonhole 3.)
If you’re adding the welt pockets, you may also want to lower the welt pocket markings on the front bodice. Again, I lowered mine by 7cm (2 3/4in). Make sure they are the same distance apart as on the original pattern.
Step 3: Check the hip ease
If your hips are on the curvy side, you’ll want to ensure there is enough ease in your new side seams for you to be able to sit and walk comfortably.
Take a look at the high hip finished garment measurement for the size you are making in the instruction booklet, and compare this to your actual full hip measurement (the widest part). I would suggest allowing around 25cm (10in) of ease for comfort, possibly a little more. If the difference between the finished high hip measurement and your full hip measurement is less than this, you can grade the side seams out a little – simply redraw each side seam from your original size at the top to the wider position at the bottom. I graded each side seam on my pattern out by 1cm (3/8in), making a total of 4cm (1 1/2in) extra ease.
Make sure you make the same changes to the front bodice, back bodice, and front and back bodice linings if you are adding them.
Once you have made the adjustments to your pattern, you can cut out your lovely fabric and sew away! Follow the step-by-step photo instructions included with the Manon pattern, or join my online workshop Learn to Sew a Lined Jacket if you’d like me to guide you through the construction with video lessons.
I’d love to see your finished makes, so please do share with us on Instagram tagging @TillyButtons in your photos or videos, and adding #SewingManon to the caption.
Can’t wait to see!
