How to Sew a Thread Chain
A thread chain is one of those wonderfully simple sewing techniques that looks a bit mysterious until you know how it’s done. It creates a small, flexible chain of thread that’s particularly useful for discreetly connecting a lining to an outer garment while allowing freedom of movement, or for making belt loops for dresses with narrow ties.
Once you get the hang of the hand movements, you can whip one up in just a minute or two. No fancy equipment or complicated sewing gymnastics needed – just a needle, some thread, and a little patience.
What can you use a thread chain for in sewing?
Thread chains have a few different uses in garment making. You can use them to:
- Loosely secure a lining to the outer garment, while allowing for movement
- Create belt loops for a dress that has a narrow waist tie
- Fashion a bra stay on a wide neck top or strappy dress, sewing a snap to the end
- Create a lightweight hanging loop or other small fabric fastening
You'll find thread chains used in our Manon jacket lining, Sonny jacket lining, and Eden coat sewing patterns, where they're used to connect the lining to the outer jacket at the underarm. This stops the lining from pulling away from the jacket when you're taking it on and off, while keeping the garment flexible.
You can also use a similar technique to make belt loops for narrow waist ties on our patterns such as the Lyra shirt dress, Safiya jumpsuit from Tilly's Make It Simple book, and Bettine dress. In this instance, they are sewn to the outside of the garment at the side seams.
Want to see exactly how to make a thread chain? Watch our step-by-step video tutorial below.
What you'll need
You don't need any specialist sewing equipment to make a thread chain. All you need is:
- Thread – silk thread will make it extra strong, but all purpose polyester thread works absolutely fine too
- A hand-sewing needle
- Scissors
How to sew a thread chain
1. Cut your thread
Cut a long piece of thread, around 1.5m (60in), and fold it in half.
Thread the folded end through your needle and tie a double or triple knot at the loose ends. You should now have four strands of thread to work with.
2. Secure the thread
Make a couple of small stitches where you want your thread chain to start.
On a jacket or coat, this will be through the seam allowances at one armpit (where the underarm and side seams meet) on the wrong side (inside) of the outer shell. On a dress or jumpsuit, this will probably be at one of the side seams at the waist.
3. Make your first loop
Take another stitch, but this time don't pull the thread all the way through. Instead, leave a large loop.
Hold the loop open with your finger and thumb.
4. Pull the thread through the loop
Pull the thread (not the needle) through the loop to create a new loop, then pull the first loop to the base of the thread so it's flush with the fabric, gently tightening it in the process.
You've made your first chain stitch!
5. Keep making the chain
Repeat the same movement to create a chain of knots:
- Hold the current loop open.
- Pull the needle thread through the loop to create a new loop.
- Pull the previous loop down to meet the previous chain stitch.
- Repeat.
Try to keep the tension fairly even as you go. You want the chain to be secure, but not so tight that it loses its flexibility.
6. Secure the thread chain
Once your thread chain has reached the length you need (about 2cm or 3/4-1in for a jacket lining), pass the needle through the final loop and pull it tight to secure the chain.
If sewing a jacket lining, insert the needle through the seam allowances on the lining armpit (make sure the sleeve lining is on the same side as the outer sleeve you're connecting it to!).
If sewing a belt loop, insert the needle back through the side seam next to where the thread chain begins.
Knot the thread securely and snip the ends.
And that's it – you've made a thread chain!
A few tips for making thread chains
Keep your loops fairly even.
The chain will look neater if you make each loop a similar size.
Don't pull too tightly.
A thread chain should have a little flexibility. If you pull each loop extremely tight, it can become stiff and less useful for securing a lining or holding a tie.
Use strong thread.
Regular polyester thread is suitable for most garments, while silk thread can be useful when you want a particularly strong chain.
Practice makes perfect.
The hand movements can feel slightly fiddly the first time you try them. Once you've made a few loops, the technique becomes much more intuitive and you'll be able to make one really quickly.
One little technique, lots of uses!
Once you've mastered a thread chain, you'll probably start spotting places where you can use one in your sewing projects.
They're quick to make, require just a needle and thread, and are a lovely way to create a neat, discreet finish without adding bulky fabric loops or visible stitching.
If you're making the Manon jacket sewing pattern, this is the technique you'll use to secure the lining at the underarms. And if you're sewing a garment with a narrow waist tie, try using the same technique to create delicate thread chain belt loops.
Happy sewing!
