How to Add In-Seam Pockets to a Garment (Free Pattern!)
Hands up if you love clothes with pockets? Show me a sewist who doesn’t!
In this tutorial, we’ll show you how to add in-seam pockets to a dress, skirt, pair of trousers, jumpsuit or pyjama bottoms using our free pocket pattern. In-seam pockets are tucked neatly into the seams of a garment (such as the side seams), so they’re practical without changing the overall look of your handmade outfit.
You can use this with lots of sewing patterns, including the Nell dress, Alexa jumpsuit, Jaimie pyjamas, and more.
Open the pattern in Adobe Reader (you can download it for free) and print the pocket pattern piece at actual size or 100% scale on A4 or Letter paper.
Watch this video tutorial on how to sew pockets into the seams of a garment, or follow the step-by-step guide below.
What are in-seam pockets?
In-seam pockets are hidden pockets sewn into the seams of a garment, such as the side seams. They’re a brilliant way to add a practical detail to handmade clothes, and it's usually easy to add them even if the original sewing pattern doesn’t include pockets.
They work particularly well on dresses, skirts, trousers, jumpsuits, pyjama bottoms and loose-fitting garments with enough ease around the hips. For very fitted styles, check the placement carefully before cutting or sewing so the pocket doesn’t pull the side seam out of shape.
For this tutorial, we’ll demonstrate on a skirt, but the same method works for dresses, trouser legs, jumpsuits and pyjama bottoms.
You will need:
- Your garment pieces, cut out and ready to sew
- Free in-seam pocket pattern
- Fabric for four pocket pieces
- Iron-on interfacing (similar weight to your fabric)
- Sewing machine and basic tools, including pins or clips, marking tool, iron and ironing board
Cut four pocket pieces in fabric, or two symmetrical pairs.
If your garment has a curved side seam, reshape the straight edge of the pocket pattern so it follows the curve of your side seam.
You’ll also need to cut four strips of iron-on interfacing, each 2cm (3/4in) wide by 19cm (7½in) long.
Step 1: Decide where the pockets will sit
The easiest method is to add the pockets before you sew the garment side seams together.
Hold the front garment piece against your body and imagine sliding your hand into the pocket. Use a fabric marking tool, pins or short notches to mark where you’d like the top of the pocket opening to sit on the side seams.
Mark the same positions on the matching back piece.
Step 2: Add interfacing to support the pocket opening
Place an interfacing strip glue side down over the wrong side of each garment side seam, where the pocket opening will sit. Position the top of the interfacing strip 10mm (3/8in) above the top-of-pocket opening you marked in the previous step. Fuse it in place with a hot, dry iron.
This helps strengthen the pocket opening, especially on lightweight or loosely woven fabrics.
Step 3: Finish the seam allowances
Finish the side seams of the garment pieces and all edges of the pocket pieces using a zigzag stitch or an overlocker (serger).
It’s easier to finish the seam allowances now, while the pieces are still flat, rather than trying to do it after the pockets are sewn in.
Want to know more about finishing seam allowances? Read about how to finish with zigzag stitch on a regular sewing machine.
Step 4: Attach the pocket pieces
Lay one pocket piece over one front garment piece, right sides together. Line up the straight edge of the pocket with the garment side seam, with the curved part of the pocket pointing towards the hem. Position the top of the pocket side seam 10mm (3/8in) below the top of the interfacing strip (which is on the wrong side of the fabric). Pin in place.
Stitch the pocket to the side seam using a 10mm (3/8in) seam allowance.
Repeat for the remaining pocket pieces, attaching one pocket to each front and back side seam. Check that the pockets on the front and back pieces line up with each other.
Step 5: Press and understitch the pockets
Fold each pocket away from the garment and press the seam.
Understitch the pocket to the seam allowance, stitching close to the seam. This helps keep the pocket tucked neatly inside the garment instead of peeping out as you wear it.
New to this technique? Read more about how to sew understitching.
Step 6: Pin the side seams and pockets
Place the front garment piece over the back garment piece, right sides together.
Pin down the side seam and around the pocket curves, matching up the pocket pieces on front and back and any notches. Leave the side seam where it joins the pockets unpinned.
Mark pivot points on the wrong side of the garment 15mm (5/8in) in from the raw edge of the side seams and pocket edge - these are marked in yellow on the photo above.
Step 7: Sew the side seams and pockets
Starting at the top of the side seam, sew with a 15mm (5/8in) seam allowance until you reach the first pivot point. Keep the needle down, lift the presser foot, and pivot the fabric so the pocket curve is pointing towards the needle.
Lower the presser foot and sew around the pocket curve. When you reach the second pivot point, with the needle down again, lift the presser foot, pivot the fabric back towards the side seam, and continue sewing to the hem.
Repeat on the other side seam.
Step 8: Press the pockets towards the front
Press the pockets and seam allowances towards the front of the garment.
Now you can continue sewing the rest of your project. And there you have it — easy-peasy in-seam pockets for stashing your phone, keys, or snacks.
Tips for adding in-seam pockets
Check the pocket height before sewing. Hold the garment piece against your body and make sure the opening sits comfortably where your hand naturally falls.
Make sure the front and back pockets line up. Before stitching the side seam, check that the pocket pieces meet neatly at the top and bottom of the opening.
Use a lighter pocket fabric if needed. For lightweight garments, a cotton lawn or voile pocket bag can reduce bulk.
Don’t skip the interfacing. It helps support the pocket opening and prevents the side seam from stretching out with wear.
Press as you go. Pressing after each stage helps the pockets sit smoothly inside the garment.
Can I add in-seam pockets to any sewing pattern?
You can add in-seam pockets to many sewing patterns with side seams, but they work best when the garment has enough ease around the hips.
They may not be suitable for very close-fitting styles, delicate sheer fabrics, or garments where the side seam has a zip, placket or other design detail in the same position as the pocket opening.
Want to practise this technique?
In-seam pockets are a brilliant skill to have in your sewing toolkit, and they’re a lovely way to customise your handmade wardrobe.
Want to give it a go? Try adding pockets to the Nell dress, Alexa jumpsuit or Jaimie pyjamas.
