An invisible zip, sometimes called a concealed zipper, does what it says on the tin! Unlike normal zips, an invisible zip has teeth which are hidden on the underside of the garment, so that it blends seamlessly into your garment, giving a polished and professional-looking finish.
While it might seem intimidating at first, sewing an invisible zip is actually quite simple once you know the steps, and when you've mastered it you'll feel like a pro!
In this tutorial, I'll be demonstrating this fancy fastening on the Tilly and the Buttons Ramona skirt sewing pattern, where the zip is in the left side seam - but you can follow this method for a centred zip too, and apply it to lots of other sewing patterns.
How do you sew an invisible zip?
Watch our step-by-step video tutorial on how to sew an invisible zip or, if you prefer to learn via photos and text, keep on reading.
Remember, we are demonstrating on the Ramona skirt sewing pattern - if you're using a different pattern, your garment might not look exactly like the one in the video and photos, but you'll still be able to use this technique.
You will need:
Invisible (or concealed) zip in the length specified in your pattern (22cm [9in] for the Ramona skirt pattern)
Invisible zip foot (check the one you get fits your model of sewing machine)
Regular zip foot or adjustable zip foot (again, check it fits your sewing machine)
Sewing machine and tools (pins, scissors etc)
So, once you've got those handy, let's get started.
First of all, on the front and back skirts, finish the raw edge of each unstitched side seam, without trimming. Fold these seam allowances under to the wrong side by 15mm (⅝in) and press. Open the zip and with a warm, dry iron (not too hot!) press the back of the zip to smooth the curled teeth flat. Uncurling and pressing the zip will help when it comes to stitching as close to the teeth as possible later on.
If your fabric is on the lighter weight side, you can stabilise the zip area first by applying narrow strips of interfacing to the wrong side of each side seam edge. For the Ramona skirt pattern, the zip area runs from the top edge of the waistband down to the hip notch.
Lay the front skirt right side up and unfold the seam allowances you just pressed. Flip the zip over the front skirt so they’re right sides together, and pin the left zip tape (as you’d wear it – now on your right) to the open seam on the front skirt – align the zip teeth with the pressed fold and the top of the zip stop 15mm (⅝in) down from the top edge of the waistband.
Attach an invisible zip foot to your machine. The invisible zip foot has two little grooves at the bottom – slot the teeth of the pinned zip tape into the left groove. Position the machine needle over the zip tape, and stitch from the top of the zip down as far as you can before reaching the zip pull – sew as close to the teeth as you can, but take care not to sew over them. Backtack securely at each end, and trim your threads as short as possible so they don't get caught in the zip.
Close the zip. If the project you’re making includes a seam to match across both sides of the zip (such as the waistband seam on the Ramona skirt), snip a notch in the unstitched zip tape exactly in line with this seam – this will help you to get the seam matching perfectly across both sides of the zip.
Open the zip, and pin the unstitched zip tape to the unstitched back skirt side seam, right sides together. If you snipped a notch in the zip tape, match this with its corresponding seam, and align the zip teeth with the pressed fold. Stitch as before, this time with the zip tape teeth in the right-hand groove of the invisible zip foot.
Close the zip. Pin the seams below the zip together, right sides together, pulling the ends of the zip tapes out of the way. Attach a regular or adjustable zip foot to your machine - we find an adjustable zip foot really helps here as you can slide the edge of the foot super close to the needle. This means that when you come to stitch next to your zip stitching you can get nice and close, which will help avoid any unsightly lumps or puckering.
With the needle to the right of the foot, stitch with a 15mm (⅝in) seam allowance from the skirt hem to a few stitches past the zip bottom stop – take your time when you reach the zip, and sew just to the left of the zip stitching. Backtack securely at each end and trim your threads as short as possible. Press the seam allowances open.
Behold, your beautifully sewn invisible zip! 😍 I hope you've found this tutorial useful. The key with invisible zips is to take your time, and remember practice makes perfect (or if not perfect, then definitely good enough)!
